How long to warm up ninja 250r

Instead of slicing my way over to the number one lane as I normally do, I stayed in the first lane I had merged in to. I felt slow, small and vulnerable. Wow, maybe this was not such a good idea! At that moment I was worried I was going to get run over by the faster moving vehicles that were zipping past me on my pint-sized mount I twisted the throttle and flicked the foot shifter, only to realize I was already in the top gear.

As the sound of the Kawasaki parallel twin raced higher, I felt the torque kick in at rpm, pulling strongly, catching the aggressively moving traffic.

I kept the throttle pinned and the Ninja R kept pulling all the way up to 11, rpm as I passed cars in the next lane. Aha, this is more like it! Several miles later I exited the freeway as I had an errand to run. The Ninja R is so small that maneuvering between the sludgy lanes of traffic was easy. In fact, I almost felt like I was cheating as I slipped between the stopped cars, moving up to the front of the line.

Once the red light changed, I gave a big twist and let the engine rev high, shifting into second and then third, speeding ahead of the cars, going all of 35 mph. By the time I came home that first night, I had figured out how to run with the rest of the pack. No short shifting. Tomorrow, back to the number one lane. Riding home from work a couple of weeks later along the busy, but well-moving, freeway, I was hop scotching the laggard cars and moving along pretty quickly.

I noticed the twin round headlights of what I thought might be a Triumph Street Triple about a quarter mile back in my rear view mirror. The rider was two lanes over from me, moving briskly. I twisted the throttle and slipped through an opening to a clear lane ahead, noticing that I was flying just over I looked over my shoulder, about to give a nod of acknowledgment, and then realized the speedy rider was a CHP officer.

Wait a minute, then add a very small amount of oil at a time until the level in the sight glass is up to the upper mark. Replace the filler cap. Start the engine, make sure the oil light goes out, and let the engine idle for a minute. Shut the engine off and wait a few minutes before checking the window again. Add oil as necessary to bring the level up to the upper mark when both wheels are on the ground.

Repeat until the oil level is consistently in the center or higher of the view window. Keeping the oil at or close to the upper mark is desirable, but do not overfill it, as you could blow a gasket.

This is why you're adding oil bit by bit. You may also want to check the old oil for any contamination or debris. Dispose of old oil responsibly. Make sure you check for leaks, and check your oil level frequently. Ride it for a few minutes and check for leaks again. Make sure there is no oil leaking from around the filter assembly or drain plug.

Oil vapor and pressure in the engine crankcase are vented through a hose into the airbox. The idea is to burn the oil vapors off during normal engine operation. Sometimes liquid oil collects in the bottom of the airbox, instead of being burned during engine operation. To prevent the airbox from filling up with excess oil, there is a drain tube in the bottom of the airbox to allow the excess oil to drain. Oil in the airbox can be completely normal, especially if you do a lot of high-speed riding.

This oil should be drained periodically, although don't expect much to come out under normal circumstances. There is a drain plug at the bottom of the hose. Find the end of the hose, right down by the swingarm and clutch release lever on the right side.

You won't need to remove any body parts to get at it. You'll find a metal clip holding the plug in. Use a pair of pliers to squeeze the clip and move it up the hose. You can then use the pliers to pull the plug out. Just twist it a little; it's not threaded. Drain any oil that may have accumulated in the tube. Have a rag or small container handy to catch the oil. Replace the plug and move the clip back in place to hold it in.

This is something that should be done at least by the second or third oil change on a new bike, and on the first on a used one. For more information, look here. Jump to: navigation , search. Category : Engine. Personal tools Log in. Contents 1 Stuff you need 2 The process 3 Notes 4 Airbox drain hose service 5 Often forgotten: Checking the oil screen Stuff you need Once you decide to change the oil in your bike, the process is not that difficult.

The process Warm up the engine by riding it. Ninja 's are notorious for being a little grouchy when started cold, even well tuned ones.

If you want to run carb cleaner through it, go for it; it won't hurt a thing. March 30th, , PM AlanDog. Originally Posted by choneofakind. March 30th, , PM choneofakind. How many miles since your last valve adjustment? I would say pull the carbs, pull the plugs on the mix screws, then re-install them and sync them. Okay, I'm going to adjust the valves tomorrow and sync the carbs. So how difficult is it to pull the carbs given the the fairings and tank will be off? I've just passed 15k, I bought it with 4k, and I doubt the valves have ever been adjusted!

Hopefully this is a 1 day job it's going to rain tomorrow! They haven't been done yet? Then that's definitely going to help with starting at least. Carbs aren't too bad. It makes taking the carbs off much easier in the future. It's worth the time spent getting the airbox out. Adjust both mix screws to 2. You might be hard pressed to get it done in one day if it's your first time, but it's definitely do-able take your time, and make sure to secure the feeler gauges so if you drop them, they don't go down into your engine March 31st, , AM tanghonglai.

Bad news to me. Tonight I took the bike out for a ride, then all of a sudden the bike lost power and died. I pulled in the choke and the bike just didn't want to start. I tried so many times and it started. I rode with the choke on but after 2 blocks it lost power again and died. I tried again a lot of times and finally it started again, but it would die as soon as I rolled on the throttle.

I had to call a tow truck so that I could get home By the way, tonight's the first time I rode on the highway. I was just going to see how it was like riding on a highway, and it was only for 1. After reaching 55 mph. I could feel the wind's hitting my chest. I felt the tires were too thin and the bike's not stable like it would slide to left or right at any time even when the wind wasn't strong.

It was quite a scary and yet exciting experience. Last futzed with by tanghonglai; March 31st, at AM. March 31st, , AM AlanDog. March 31st, , PM choneofakind.

Originally Posted by tanghonglai. March 31st, , PM tanghonglai. I have a half tank of gas and the valve is at the ON position. I didn't take it out for a ride though, didn't have time and didn't want to see it die somewhere and have to have it towed again. As for the ride on the highway. I think it's all mental. Suddenly the bike became so much less stable when it reached that speed.

I guess I should ride more in local streets first before taking it to the highway again. There's a difference between the bike being unstable and the bike being a little squirrely from wind and not the most grippy tires etc. If it was unstable, it would be giving you tank slappers and head shake like crazy.

I'm guessing you just got blown around a little bit because the geometry of the is quite stable. You can take your hands off the bars at 80 mph and have no worries of a tank slapper. Mine usually starts at 7K RPM with the choke on. Anything below 7K it would die before I got to the end of the street. Yes, I got blown around a little by the wind and that made me feel the bike's unstable. I think I was the unstable one instead.